I wandered into Lier town centre feeling grumpy. Wow, it really got me out of my mood. It’s thoroughly Flemish, but the star building is not some over–ornate garish boast like that in Leuven. I suspect it’s because it’s too old for the fussiness; the dominant architecture, the town hall tower, is proudly marked 1369.

The centre impresses a subdued awe. It’s got all the wonderful presence of old Flemish architecture, but nothing overwhelms the rest. There’s no ego here. It broke my grump with its peaceful, balanced elegance.